It was 1947. The world was emerging from the horrors of the Second World War, and France had a triumphant victory to celebrate. This was the year Christian Dior set the fashion bold and loud with the introduction of his revolutionary “New Look.” In a single stroke, he changed the direction of fashion history for generations to come.
1. Change is in the Air: Reviving Fashion with Dior’s “New Look”
The nascent idea of reviving women’s fashion in the 1940s came in the form of Dior’s “New Look”. After years of dull, suppressed silhouettes due to wartime rationing, Christian Dior’s daring approach to fashion was an awakening in the industry. This was no mere trend – it signified a new era in fashion.
Elements of the New Look:
- Cinched-in waists
- Full, calf-length skirts
- Rounded shoulders
- Elongated jackets
This revolutionary style paid homage to the beauty of a woman’s body shape, emphasizing femininity in a way that felt liberating. With the combination of luxurious fabrics and classic tailoring, the iconic look was made complete.
In retrospect, it is clear that Dior brought a wave of excitement to the industry with his New Look. It completely revolutionized fashion and created a new standard of beauty.
2. The revival of femininity: “New Look” and the Rebirth of Flair
In the years right after World War II, a new silhouette emerged: the “New Look.” This style, pioneered by French designer Christian Dior, heralded a shift away from the utilitarian, conservative wartime fashion of the 1940s and towards something more feminine. The “New Look”, as it came to be known, featured nipped-in waists, unforgivingly full skirts and a greater variety of colors than the clothing of the 1940s. It made global headlines, often accompanied with some shrewd criticism.
The “New Look” had an impact beyond the world of fashion. It was a symbol of hope and change in an era suffering from the tragedy of war. It became a symbol of a new kind of femininity, one that embraced curves, beauty, and flair rather than the dowdy conservatism of the previous decade. The sweeping narrowness of the skirt became a signature look of the 1950s, a sign of the excitement and optimism for the decade ahead.
The “New Look” sparked a revival of many other glamorous fashion trends in the 1950s, such as:
- Emphasis on tailoring – a sharp look replaced the more casual and boxy cuts of the 1940s.
- Variety of fabrics – fabrics became varied in color and texture, no longer heavily restricted.
- More Accessories – bold jewelry, gloves, hats and other accessorizing became popular.
The “New Look” of the 1950’s continues to be an inspiration to modern fashion. Many contemporary fashion houses explore, develop and reinvent classic looks to suit a modern audience. As trends come and go, the timelessness of the original “New Look” is remembered and remains a reminder of the revival of femininity that it signified.
3. Economics of “New Look”: A Costly Turnaround in a Time of Hardship
The Reformation of 1947, commonly known as the “New Look”, was a costly affair. In the midst of a post-war financial crisis, containing costs and generating revenue became a priority for the US government. However, Truman’s decision to initiate a more streamlined military forays would force the United States to spend more money on defense.
The shift to mobile armed forces, combined with the introduction of nuclear weapons, saw a surge in military spending. The costs of equipment, ammunitions and salaries skyrocketed, due to the sheer size of troops and resources that the government now had to cater for. This of course caused a strain on the treasury.
- Weapons of Mass Destruction: Nuclear weapons, in particular, costed heavily. From research to development to maintenance, the US was reeling from the sudden surge in expenditure.
- Larger Troops and Personnel: Catering for larger armies also proved to be an expensive venture. The country was shelling out more to meet the needs of their personnel.
- Construction: To bring Truman’s vision to reality, some serious investments had to be made. Airbase and warplane construction were the norm in the post-war period, and it was draining the treasury’s funds.
Ultimately, Truman’s plans of reform came with a hefty price tag, one that was not negotiable for a country that had just recovered from the war. It is not a surprise then that the “New Look” was highly controversial at the time for its financial implications.
4. Re-inventing the Runway with Dior’s “Bar Suit”
Christian Dior’s “Bar Suit” is a true style icon and an influential look in the history of fashion. It changed the way women saw themselves and the way garments were made.
When Monsieur Dior first presented the “Bar Suit” in 1947, the look was revolutionary. It was constructed with the x-line silhouette which emphasized the female form. The most remarkable characteristic of the suit was its form-fitting waist that was meant to emphasize the femininity of the woman wearing it. This completely unconventional look caught the attention of celebrities and women all over the world.
The elegance and sophistication of the “Bar Suit” make it a timeless classic that still stands out today. It’s one of the most innovative pieces in fashion history.
The “Bar Suit” is also credited with popularizing these elements of style:
* Pointed shoulder pads
* Nipped-in waist
* A-line skirts
* Peplum jackets
Today, Dior honors the “Bar Suit” by using it as the centerpiece for many of their runway shows. The company has re-envisioned it in many bold and daring ways, thus paying homage to the original masterpiece. With every new incarnation, the “Bar Suit” continues to be reinvented and seen on the runway and in everyday life.
5. The Legacy of Dior and the Impact of the “New Look” on the Fashion Industry
Christian Dior’s “New Look” burst onto the fashion scene in 1947 and went on to become one of the most influential fashion trends to date. Out went the boxy, wartime silhouettes of the 1940s and in came the full skirts, structured jackets and opulent materials of the decade to follow.
A Style Like No Other: The “New Look” revolutionized the fashion industry, combining elements of the 1940s with modern aspects of elegance and luxury. The voluminous skirts, ornate detailing, and delicate fabrics were a far cry from the stark designs and parts of the 1940s, and set a precedent of luxurious and polished couture for decades to come.
Enduring Impact: The enduring impact of Christian Dior’s “New Look” is still seen today in the lustrous designs of the fashion world’s top brands. From Gucci to Dior itself, the influence of Dior’s “New Look” is still evident in the silhouettes, skirts, and structured jackets seen on the catwalks and red carpets around the world.
Signifying an End of an Era: The “New Look” was more than just a fashion trend: it signified the end of the Second World War and the emergence of a new era of prosperity and luxury. Dior’s designs united women of all walks of life, giving them a chance to experience the elegance and refinement of the post-war world.
- Christian Dior’s “New Look” revolutionized fashion with its full skirts, structured jackets, and luxurious materials
- The “New Look” set a precedent of opulence and sophistication for generations to come
- It signified the end of the Second World War and the beginning of a new era of prosperity and luxury
- The influence of Dior’s design is still seen in the modern fashion industry
The introduction of Christian Dior’s New Look in 1947 was a major shift in the history of fashion. Not only did it revolutionize the way women dressed in the past, but it continues to influence fashion trends today. Christian Dior skillfully redefined the idea of modern women’s fashion and provided a huge amount of influence within the industry. The Christian Dior New Look remains timeless, and will no doubt have a lasting impact for years to come.
